Pie, for the people who start early

Farmers and tradespeople order the meat pie, sometimes before they have taken off their coats. It's the dish that arrives fastest and warms the hands. Lucy says she cooks it for them first and for everyone else second.

Oysters, for the coast

The people from the beaches order oysters as if they were ordering a glass of water. They are shucked to order and arrive with lemon, and everyone at the table goes quiet for a minute. After that, you can ask for anything.

Soup, for everyone else

Pumpkin soup is the answer to most questions. The newcomers who ask what to order are told to start with it, and almost all of them thank Rachel afterwards.

The ones who stay for tea

Some guests come for neither the pie nor the cards. They come for the end of the evening, when the croupiers have counted the chips and the last table is given a pot of tea. They sit for ten minutes, talk about nothing in particular and leave a little lighter. Rachel calls them the closing crowd.