Five Card Draw is forgiving

Each player is dealt five cards, may swap some of them once, and then everyone shows their hand. There are fewer decisions than in Hold'em and fewer ways to feel lost. Because a hand is settled after a single round of swapping, a game takes only a few minutes, and nobody waits long for their turn. Claire Stevens often teaches it in ten minutes.

The regulars are welcoming

Some of our guests have been coming for years, and they remember being new. They'll pass the salt, explain the order of hands and tell you which seat is the draughty one. It's a kind of unofficial welcome, and it matters more than any sign on the door.

The carving

On Sundays Lucy carves at the pass in full view, and the lamb goes out plate by plate within a minute of the knife. The regulars know to look up when the carving begins, because the smell crosses the room before the plate does.

Last deal, same as always

The last deal on Sunday is called at half past ten, like every other night, and the tea comes out soon afterwards. The front door closes at eleven. Before then, there is time for one more cup, and somebody always takes it.